Mark... When are you taking me fishing?
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Friday, September 25, 2009
Thursday, September 24, 2009
Not for the week stomach
We’ve always said that “someone” was going to get really hurt one day at One Palm…..
After an entire season of waiting, and countless trips to the island only to find 3 foot wave at the point, finally we turned the corner on Friday, Sept 11th, to find 6 foot perfection.
Me, Antman, Luke, Gene, and Ryan were all over it and Ant was the first to get one all the way. When he got back up to the line up, his eyes were popping out of his head with tales of the Sleepy Hollow section and its low tide cylinder with no water underneath. The next one I got, I went for broke too, and pulled into the dry jet engine sounding funnel down there. Forgot what that was like, as it’s been 14 months since anyone has been way down there flirting with foam ball death for 20 seconds + at a time.
When I got back to the top, Ant and I were psyching on our feat without injuries or broken boards. We both got a few more decent ones, but nothing else all the way…..yet.
A solid one came through and Ant was up….. off into the distance he went and out of sight. About 20 minutes later he came back up to the pack in Just Dreaming’s rubber duck. He held up his hand and the crew was just horrified. He’d gotten slammed down there…..same section that was previously named Mangina’s, after Kiwi Nick’s punctured 2nd anus a few years back.
Luckily there was a paramedic on one of the other boats that had the goods to irrigate and dress the wound. We tried to get a helicopter, but after an hour of trying (including Ant’s Dad trying from Oz and another guy trying to work things from Hong Kong ) we had to face the reality of a feral boat ride back to where an ambulance would be waiting about 3 & 1/2hours away. Another 4 hour ride to the hospital in Jakarta and plenty of morphine into the morning, Ant was headed to Singapore .
Ant has no feeling in his thumb, and not sure if it will come back. He is off work for a minimum of 2 months. Attached is the amazing work of plastic surgeon genius and 80 stitches, as well as $15,000. They expect that not all the flesh will set, as it was so long before surgery, and that skin graphing will be the answer if it doesn’t. I can already hear the jokes if Ant’s ass is graphed onto his hand….
Below are a few shots of the next few days, after we got back out there.
Mangina’s section is now called No Palm.
Bill Lloyd
After an entire season of waiting, and countless trips to the island only to find 3 foot wave at the point, finally we turned the corner on Friday, Sept 11th, to find 6 foot perfection.
Me, Antman, Luke, Gene, and Ryan were all over it and Ant was the first to get one all the way. When he got back up to the line up, his eyes were popping out of his head with tales of the Sleepy Hollow section and its low tide cylinder with no water underneath. The next one I got, I went for broke too, and pulled into the dry jet engine sounding funnel down there. Forgot what that was like, as it’s been 14 months since anyone has been way down there flirting with foam ball death for 20 seconds + at a time.
When I got back to the top, Ant and I were psyching on our feat without injuries or broken boards. We both got a few more decent ones, but nothing else all the way…..yet.
A solid one came through and Ant was up….. off into the distance he went and out of sight. About 20 minutes later he came back up to the pack in Just Dreaming’s rubber duck. He held up his hand and the crew was just horrified. He’d gotten slammed down there…..same section that was previously named Mangina’s, after Kiwi Nick’s punctured 2nd anus a few years back.
Luckily there was a paramedic on one of the other boats that had the goods to irrigate and dress the wound. We tried to get a helicopter, but after an hour of trying (including Ant’s Dad trying from Oz and another guy trying to work things from Hong Kong ) we had to face the reality of a feral boat ride back to where an ambulance would be waiting about 3 & 1/2hours away. Another 4 hour ride to the hospital in Jakarta and plenty of morphine into the morning, Ant was headed to Singapore .
Ant has no feeling in his thumb, and not sure if it will come back. He is off work for a minimum of 2 months. Attached is the amazing work of plastic surgeon genius and 80 stitches, as well as $15,000. They expect that not all the flesh will set, as it was so long before surgery, and that skin graphing will be the answer if it doesn’t. I can already hear the jokes if Ant’s ass is graphed onto his hand….
Below are a few shots of the next few days, after we got back out there.
Mangina’s section is now called No Palm.
Bill Lloyd
Monday, September 21, 2009
Sunday, September 20, 2009
Surf Report Aloita Surf resort Mentawi Indonesia
Mate….’tis not the cover of 89 surfer….but…..this is 2009……!!!
30 years ive aspired to get this far…….
http://www.coastalwatch.com/news/article.aspx?articleId=6523&cateId=3&display=0&title=Indo:%20Sept%207-14,%202009.
A perfect example of backhand tube riding. Unidentified, seriously shacked on the weekend.
Huge late season swell pushed through, began about a week ago, initial fri taster then kicked in bigtime by Sun avo, we went nth on SAT….hope of rifles, but wind was serious SE. Nabbed a couple at ebay, then went back to bumpy Sipora.
Next day was firing though…..and the brunt of swell was the 2 days after, when we settled for the uncrowded (just two boats anchored there!) G4….was pretty darn good, solid 6ft funwalls with speed and a bit of grunt. Surfed the nipple, hookers was 8ft and cloudbreak esque, heavy end sectiony. Tikkus was all time if wasn’t for wind. 2 boats anchored and all over it for 2 days. Teles 6ft and piping, quite a stiff cross off wind on it, plus 7 boats. We got the best of it really. Scuzz on it whole time too. Ice was out of control……too windy, otherwise…….fark!
Now…..the remnants of this 4 day SSW pulse, have been obliterated by a severe N NW equatorial squall….which has ruined any attempt of picking up any swell scraps.
Howling nth winds…….20-30 knots, as hard as ive seen….(ive said that 3 times this year!), and relentless, 48 hrs and hasn’t eased. Heaps of rain too.
Half the staff left for holidays, got a Italian dive group here to suss out place, talking it up, looking positive, few stray punters, and the Russians on horizon. Looks like the sthn Indian is brewing up some more goodies to fling this way too.
What’s in stall for coming wet……and into 2010 ???
Whatever on offer, it’s sure sounding good!
Stay tuned.
Webby
30 years ive aspired to get this far…….
http://www.coastalwatch.com/news/article.aspx?articleId=6523&cateId=3&display=0&title=Indo:%20Sept%207-14,%202009.
A perfect example of backhand tube riding. Unidentified, seriously shacked on the weekend.
Huge late season swell pushed through, began about a week ago, initial fri taster then kicked in bigtime by Sun avo, we went nth on SAT….hope of rifles, but wind was serious SE. Nabbed a couple at ebay, then went back to bumpy Sipora.
Next day was firing though…..and the brunt of swell was the 2 days after, when we settled for the uncrowded (just two boats anchored there!) G4….was pretty darn good, solid 6ft funwalls with speed and a bit of grunt. Surfed the nipple, hookers was 8ft and cloudbreak esque, heavy end sectiony. Tikkus was all time if wasn’t for wind. 2 boats anchored and all over it for 2 days. Teles 6ft and piping, quite a stiff cross off wind on it, plus 7 boats. We got the best of it really. Scuzz on it whole time too. Ice was out of control……too windy, otherwise…….fark!
Now…..the remnants of this 4 day SSW pulse, have been obliterated by a severe N NW equatorial squall….which has ruined any attempt of picking up any swell scraps.
Howling nth winds…….20-30 knots, as hard as ive seen….(ive said that 3 times this year!), and relentless, 48 hrs and hasn’t eased. Heaps of rain too.
Half the staff left for holidays, got a Italian dive group here to suss out place, talking it up, looking positive, few stray punters, and the Russians on horizon. Looks like the sthn Indian is brewing up some more goodies to fling this way too.
What’s in stall for coming wet……and into 2010 ???
Whatever on offer, it’s sure sounding good!
Stay tuned.
Webby
Thursday, September 17, 2009
Chris Mclaughlin On! the set of Beverly hills 90210
Friday, September 11, 2009
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